Most first-time axe throwers stick their first axe within 10 attempts. Getting consistent accuracy, where you can reliably hit a specific zone on demand, takes more deliberate practice. These tips cover the mechanics behind a clean throw and the specific adjustments to make when things go wrong.
For context on how the target is scored and what you are aiming at, read our axe throwing rules guide before your first session.
Table of Contents
The Two Throwing Styles
There are two standard throwing styles: one-handed and two-handed. Under WATL and IATF rules, both are permitted in competition.
One-handed: Your dominant hand grips the handle near the bottom, non-dominant hand free. This gives you more wrist control and is the preferred style for most experienced and competitive throwers.
Two-handed: Both hands grip the handle, thumbs pointing upward along the flat. This creates a more symmetrical release and is easier for beginners to learn quickly because there is less room for the wrist to twist.
Start with two hands if you have never thrown before. Switch to one hand once you can stick the axe in the bullseye zone 3 out of 5 attempts consistently.
How to Grip the Axe
Place your dominant hand near the bottom of the handle (not the middle, not the top). Your thumb should press against the flat side of the handle rather than wrapping around it.
The grip should be firm, not tight. A white-knuckle grip creates tension in your forearm and wrist, which ruins the release. Think of holding a hammer at a natural resting firmness, firm enough that it will not fly out sideways, but relaxed enough that your forearm stays loose.
For two-handed throws, stack both hands on the handle with thumbs pointing the same direction up the flat. Keep wrists neutral, not cocked inward.
Stance and Starting Position
Stand with your feet roughly shoulder-width apart. For a right-handed throw, your right foot is slightly back (a slight staggered stance helps with forward momentum). Your body should face the target squarely.
You are throwing from exactly 12 feet. Most venues mark this line clearly. Use the entire 12 feet; do not crowd the line or stand further back. The rotation math only works consistently at the correct distance.
The Throwing Motion
Raise the axe directly above your head with both hands (or dominant hand for one-handed). The axe head should be behind your head, not off to one side. Your eyes stay on the target throughout the motion.
Swing forward in a straight vertical arc, like a hammer stroke. Let the axe fall forward. Release when your hands are at roughly eye level. Do not snap your wrists at release. The axe should leave your hands naturally as the arc completes, not be flicked or pushed.
Follow through by letting your arms continue downward after the release. Stopping the follow-through abruptly puts unwanted spin on the axe.
Fixing Rotation Problems
Rotation is the most common problem for beginners. The axe needs exactly one full turn to arrive blade-first at 12 feet.
Axe hits handle-first (under-rotated): You are releasing too early, or you are standing too close to the target. Take a small step backward (6 inches) or focus on holding the axe slightly longer before release.
Axe hits the target upside-down or blade-facing-away: The axe has over-rotated. Step forward 6 inches toward the line, or release the axe a fraction earlier in your swing arc.
Axe sticks but then falls out: The blade angle on impact is too steep. Check that you are not cocking your wrists during the throw, and confirm your grip is not too tight.
Aiming
Fix your eyes on the bullseye from the moment you raise the axe. Do not look at your hands during the throw. Most experienced throwers pick a specific grain line or knot in the wood at the bullseye and focus on that point.
Body alignment matters more than trying to consciously aim. If your stance is square to the target and your throw is straight (not off to one side), the axe naturally lands near center. Misaligned throws, where the axe consistently drifts left or right, usually mean your stance or release is angled rather than straight-on.
Common Beginner Mistakes
Throwing too hard: Power does not improve accuracy in axe throwing. The axe only needs enough velocity to stick in the wood. Throwing harder adds unpredictable spin. A controlled medium-pace throw sticks more reliably than a full-force one.
Looking at the axe mid-throw: Breaking eye contact with the target to watch the axe in flight shifts your body alignment and throws off the release. Keep your eyes on the target through the full motion.
Changing too many things at once: When the axe does not stick, the instinct is to change grip, stance, and release simultaneously. Change one variable at a time. Move your feet first (forward or back). If that does not fix it, then adjust the release point.
Inconsistent grip position: Gripping higher or lower on the handle changes rotation. Pick a consistent hand position (near the bottom for one-handed throws) and mark it mentally.
Tips for Improving Your Score
Once you can stick the axe consistently, the next goal is landing in the bullseye zone. The bullseye in WATL play is a 3.5-inch circle. Hitting it requires a straight throw with consistent rotation and good eye alignment.
Pick one throwing target session per week and throw at the same spot 30 to 40 times in a row. Repetition at a consistent distance with a consistent grip builds muscle memory faster than variety. Most WATL venues offer open-practice sessions for exactly this purpose.
When you feel ready to work on the killshot zones (the two small circles near the top of the target), practice at them during your warm-up throws before a session, not as your primary practice target. Killshots require you to slightly adjust your aim upward without altering the throw mechanics.
For full target specifications including bullseye dimensions, see our axe throwing target guide. For a summary of rules and scoring, see our rules page.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you grip an axe for throwing?
Hold the handle near the bottom with your dominant hand. Press your thumb against the flat side rather than wrapping it around. Keep the grip firm but not tight. A tense forearm disrupts the release and adds unwanted spin.
Why does my axe not stick in the target?
Usually, it is a rotation issue. At 12 feet, the axe should complete one full turn. If it hits handle-first, step back or release later. If it hits blade-first but bounces, step forward or release slightly earlier. Fix one variable at a time.
Should I use one hand or two hands?
Both are legal under WATL and IATF rules. Start two-handed for stability, and switch to one-handed once you can consistently stick the axe. Most competitive throwers prefer the one-handed style for its control and repeatability.
How do I stop over-rotating?
Step forward toward the toe line or release the axe earlier in your swing arc. Over-rotation means the axe is completing more than one turn before hitting the target. A 6-inch position change is usually all that is needed.
